It was Alessandro Micheles first collection for Gucci since Frida Giannini's sudden departure after the pre fall collection in November and it certainly was a change in direction from Pre fall. Unfortunately for Giannini the Pre collection looked more Zara than aspirational Gucci. It was commerical, but oh so predictable.
Of course Michele was always going to want to move away from this with his own stamp, and I'm undecided if its the right direction for Gucci. This collection is certainly more playful, more vintage, and very Miu Miu... and its certainly fresher than the previous collection.
It has an air of charity shop chic about it, the pretty girl you see in the library who isnt just beautiful and clever but you want to copy her style too. The style muse could be Margot Tenenbaum with the blonde bob, beret and pelted mink coat.
Unfortuantley the trousers were ill fitting (maybe its deliberate), the models looked scruffy, and the colours have Prada/ Miu Miu written all over them. The oriental blossom prints are beautiful but I'm sure we saw something similar two seasons ago at Dolce and Gabanna. They say trends are slowing down, but surely there are newer prints?
The berets, geeky tortoise shell specs, pussy bow blouses worn outside bold jacquard coats, and the pleated leather skirts bring it into this century and save the collection for me. And the signature Gucci Hybrid loafer Mule with gold bar detail thrown in reminds you that its Gucci after all.
I'm sure we still have the best to come from Michele, roll on spring summer!
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